Halfway between
Campobasso and Térmoli, LARINO is
considerably more attractive than most Molise towns, its medieval
centre clasped in the valley, relatively untouched by the concrete and
pace of the modern industrial town that supports it. The highlight is
its cathedral, but there are also some minor Roman relics in its small
museum and a neglected amphitheatre in the modern town.
To the left of the train
station, Via Gramsci leads down to old Larino.
The main street widens out at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, backing onto
which is the Palazzo Ducale, whose museum (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm & 3.30pm
–6.30pm; free) contains large Roman mosaics and a hoard of coins. On
Via Gramsci, about halfway between the station and the centro storico,
there's a garden that also has Roman ruins, including capitals and
columns, and a sacrificial altar called the Ara Frentana. Close by is
the Duomo, built in the early fourteenth century just after the town
had been flattened by an earthquake and sacked by the Saracens, with an
intricately carved Gothic portal....
...Larino once had 13,000
residents, but emigration took away many of
its sons, and now the population hovers around 7,000. Every August,
however, the town fills up, and the streets are full of cars with
license plates from Torino, Milan, Germany, and Belgium.
Originally Larino was just a
small town nestled in the valley below
what is now the major part of the city. The upper area was once an
extensive Roman site, including an amphitheater, the remains of which
you can visit. Much of the rest has been built over to create modern
Larino. This is the area that has many of the hotels and services you
will use, but you should devote much of your visit to the old town
below.